前段时间下定了performance blue的 i20N，从网上下载了车的manual，上面只推荐使用 0w20的机油，好像原厂灌的是shell的0w20，
很好奇的是 它大哥 i30N 好像用的是0w30吧？kia cerato gt 和i20N 用的是同款1.6T 发动机，但是推荐用5w30，
0w20据说稀得像水一样，i20N还提供5年 赛道warranty，这么稀得的机油在赛道上能提供足够强的油膜来保护发动机吗，欢迎大家讨论。。
鬼佬的论坛也有讨论这个的
https://n-cars.net/forums/thread ... ussion-thread.6476/
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0w20只是一方面。有没有提需要ACEA什么等级?
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没看到ACEA的等级啊，，只有API SN PLUS或者ILSAC GF-6
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现在好像确实越来越多的车使用0W-20，可能是因为机械加工越来越精密。
另外好像0W-20会省油
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是啊， 86也是0w20吗？但是还是高转速保护啊，，，担心油膜厚度不够
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现代的引擎在美国现在是一头包，几个主力车型都在召回
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我车原装是20的，我是换了40的
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哪些型号啊
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你的是啥车啊。。换40会影响质保吗
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新车用稀点的没事，老车了慢慢用粘一点的
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从Quora上搬运
No one really knows since the oil and car industry are so opaque.
We have our suspicions, though, that the lighter weight oils are more about fuel economy than slipping into really tight spaces in new cars.
We get really cynical when cars sold here call for only 0W-20 but owners manuals in foreign countries for the same vehicle recommend 5W-30 (yes, the same motor despite smaller displacement engines often replacing, over there, the larger engines sent here).
There are a lot of politics over ICE (internal combustion engines).
Sometimes consumers want cheaper oil, and you can buy a cheap version of 5W-20 in conventional formulation, while 0W-20 is only made in full synthetic and hence is priced higher. Unfortunately 5W-20 in a conventional or semi-synthetic blend breaks down too quickly and you are at risk unless you follow the shorter “Severe” service oil change schedule. Also you may have more ring deposits even with a shorter service interval.
Even in America the API (American Petroleum Institute representing refineries) and ILSAC (International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee, formed in 1992 by AAMA (American Automobile Manufacturers Association) are constantly fighting about how “cheap” vs. how “good” oil should be. You can guess that API wants to sell lots and lots of oil which means cheaper, and ILSAC wants the engines to last longer and the drain intervals to be longer (conflicting goals at times) due to pressure from the EPA and Congress and environmentalists.
I think with a car still under factory warranty, your best bet is to use exactly the oil specified on the oil cap. If the viscosity spec is one such that its made in cheap conventional or semi-synthetic blend, nevertheless use full synthetic and don’t go beyond 5,000 miles even if 7,500 or even 10,000 miles are permitted by the manual. Or, alternately, follow the severe service schedule.
Checking oil level every other fill-up is a good idea (I never see anyone at the gas station do this any more, though) since oil can burn off, and smelling the oil on the dipstick for gasoline contamination is also a good idea (sometimes the oil burning off is replaced by gasoline contamination and your dipstick level is fine but your oil is anything but).
In short, your warranty is probably more at risk than your engine, but your engine WILL be at risk if it either deliberately specifies a full synthetic, or specs an oil that for all practical purposes is only made as a full synthetic (which is exactly what your 0W-20 factory recommended oil is). So if you take your chances on a thicker viscosity (Cannonball Run, anyone?), at least make sure it’s full synthetic.
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即使是0W-20，应该还有细标。
例如下面是我的车用的0W-20.
Castrol Edge Professional V 0W-20 or VCC RBS0-2AE 0W-20
or前面那个直接是品牌+型号，or后面那个就是厂家自己的细标，符合的品牌+型号应该会提到满足这个细标。
我查了一下，在澳洲比较难找，基本只能去dealer 做 service。
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