在新西兰
Hi this is a dairy of my F430 1/24 in progress... this should be the first model making DIY post atm... anyway this will update all the time until it's finished~ welcome to comment and ask questions
The most important thing about building a model car is the body. If you couldn't do this right your whole model will look fake. So you should spend more time on this than any other parts... a body itself would take around 2 to 4 weeks to finish.
Day one. This kit is not the best quality model and there are some bugs (same bugs as computer bugs) but hopefully no major modification is needed... the only thing that I did was cutting off the parts which is meant to be net but covered by plastic. This is easy, drill holes with a 1.5 ~ 2mm drill then cut it off... after that use #1200 sand paper to sand the car through out for machine cut parts due to manufacturing... by then your body should feel smooth and fine.
As you can see from the boot lid (engine cover) I have drilled holes and have cut it off... so I can install my own net later, instead of leaving it unreal.
[ 本帖最后由 astonnut 于 2008-2-1 01:02 编辑 ]
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Day 2. I have polished the whole body and the chopped off parts with a #1200 sand paper. You can use water when you sand it but it will reduce the fiction and will make the sand paper run out quicker... however the dust will not fly away and is better for your body. I have also stuck onto the other body parts with masking tape to see what the body looks like and see if there's any need for further modification, hopefully, none were needed
Also the rear giant hole between the rear lights was used to be covered by plastic. I have also drilled and chopped off and finally polished for later modification... installing my own net onto it to make it look real
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Day 3. In order to find out if there are any parts left un-polished I have sprayed a thin coat of Surface Premier. Because of it's gray colour you can easily find out any de-fact of the body. Also this is really ideal for later spray painting because this absorb paint better than the original body.
Because this is sprayed, dust will eventually stick onto the body. Do not remove them while it's wet, otherwise you will be in some serious situation. Leave it to dry first, then because of the nature of the spray, the body will be "bumpy" anyway... use at least #1500 sand paper (must use tamyia's sand paper because they are much more dense than normal ones that you get from hardware stores) when you sand, the bump and dust will be automatically removed... once you think you are done (when it's really smooth) remove the dust you have made while polishing with a towel of toliet paper... and prepare it for the final coat of Surface Premier.
Surface Premier is the bottle shown in the pic holding up the car body.
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Day 4. This is the final spray of Surface Premier. What you have to do here is just spray it until the body is covered by gray. Can't really say when to stop, it is all about practice... When you think it's enough, that's enough... if not keep spraying until you think it's enough...
After spraying and drying, use #2000 sand paper (again, only use tamyia) to gently sand the body, as I said before the body would be bumpy due to the surface premier, you will have to sand it until the body is smooth. But don't be too hard on it becacuuse otherwise you will sand it too much and the original body surface will show... gently and slowly sand it until it's really really fine, by then the body of the modelshould feel very similar to your real car. There is no shortcut, you must sand the whole car otherwise it will be really un-even. Remember you must balance it! If you sand one part of the car too much and another part not enough than it will also look un-even
As you can see from the photo although the colour is a really matt gray, you can still see shine on the body. That is how fine it has to go before proceeding to the next stage, which is spray painting...
That's it for now until next week. I have to wait till next week for my spray gun to arrive from HK before I can carry on.
Remember there is no shortcut if you want to build a model... any sort of model. Steps must be followed otherwise the model will just look un real at the end.
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awesome! too many terms i ve no idea tho...looking forward 2 the final model. good on u.
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you can ask me if you don't understand anything, i know it would be quite hard to get all that if you are not familiar with models but like i said it's allabout practice~~
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哈哈哈，终于有同好了。哥们。
加这个群
55053589
我建的。将会陆续进人嘿嘿
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sure will join soon~~ i am updating sometime tomorrow or sunday, be sure to come back and check it out :P
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兄弟，这车啥颜色？法拉利红貌似打灰底色不对吧。曾经看过好多人做法拉利都是白，粉色，然后是法拉利红
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should always be gray surface premier because the result is more convincing than the white one... white is too smooth to be under coat. as long as the red base paint is properly painted than it's ok~
anyway planning to paint gun metal or pearl blue~~
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GUN METAL.
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漂亮的法拉利怎么没下文了？？
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having trouble modifying the side grills... i just finished the final polishing today... but then there's another problem. my spray gun needs a 3.5mm power adaptor... i have the gun, i have the adaptor but it's not in size 3.5mm lol!! i am trying to find the right socket in the past few days i tried dick smith and bunnings warehouse and also the other hardware store but couldn't find it! do you know anywhere that i can buy electrical stuff?? can't spray paint if i can't turn on the gun
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u really should ask stuff abt ur gun b4 u left any store up there... i cant help anyway.. good luck to the "Fair lady"
i reckon "Colan" may help
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我也帮不上啥忙啊。我一般都用田宫的压缩机。压力很小。一般模型点都有卖压缩机的啊
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haha that gun was with me for nearly 10 years. I just got it sent over from HK a week ago to work on this model. Back then I used those R/C car batteries so not using an adaptor was never a problem... coz i used to play war game with the same battery... but now the gun is sold along with the battery hence i don't have any power to run the gun...
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我喷笔也是用7。2伏电池的啊。那个电池没多钱，买一块呗。
但是我的压缩机还有直电接口，只需要个变压器
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变压器... i have... but the plug is different from the tamiya pump.... i could replace the plug if i can find it... but none of the sizes that i find in dick smith fits and now i can't find another place to go to for those plugs... guess i will just have to look at how much it cost tomorrow for a new adaptor... how much are the 7.2v batteries? and also the charger?
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电池我好几年前买是60刀一块。充电器就是两根线。一面接电池。另外一头接汽车上的电瓶。15分钟充满。很方便
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这边压缩机你们都用什么样的？ 我做飞机模型 哈哈
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mine is a 10 year old tamiya pump + spray gun... to be honest it's not that good but since i owned it i will keep using it until it breaks
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Little update... now I am ready to paint BUT due to wet weather I have stopped modeling the car because painting in wet weather will affect the paint job. So don't ever paint in wet weather...
In model world assembling is a must... but sometimes the parts that require assembling will result in gaps appearing which in real life, don't exist... so you will have to cover the gap. In situations like this you will need what we call "putty". You can buy these in any model shops. There are different kinds of putty and the use of putty is wide. Like coolan he used it to modify the front bumper of his Evo. But here I used it for covering the gaps on the model that don't exist in real life...
This part is simple... all you need to do is spread "basic putty" on the gap and then stick the two parts together... wait for 2 hours (make sure it is rock dry) and then polish it to a point where you are satisfied.
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你车壳跟地盘卡上了吗？
如果卡上真应该降低一下车身
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no it hasn't, it will be lower than that once it's properly installed :P
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从第一张图看，模型制造商制作的模具很差！但从LZ的制作水平来看，可以慢慢修正过来，期待最终成型后的图片！
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第一张图那些灰白灰白的应该是打磨后的 模具不错的
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以前小时候玩过几年的塑拼模型。 好想法拉利系列是田宫tamiya的，dragon也出过，韩国的爱德美貌似也出过。。感觉楼主这个是tamiya的。
那个灰白的应该是水补土吧。。觉得喷的有点多。以前自己喷水补土也是用喷枪喷。然后打磨然后底漆，底漆也是为了发色好一些。。
好久没碰过了。快10年了，估计自己都落伍了。
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哇、纯手工啊！！！赞，顶一个！！